17.8.2024 | Restaurants

Michelin award-winning restaurant in a Soviet-era café

Text and photos Timo Huttunen

The dark ceiling dominates Tuljak’s dining room.

The building housing the Tuljak restaurant was completed in 1964 as an extension to the nearby Lillepaviljon exhibition hall. The Lillepaviljon, which had been completed in 1960, attracted considerable attention during the Soviet era for its unique and unconventional architectural design.

Both buildings were designed by architect Valve Pormeister, and they have since been restored to closely resemble their original state. The sea view from Tuljak’s dining room and terrace at sunset is truly stunning, and the atmosphere in this protected restaurant is unique, as if stepping back in time.

The building was considered cutting-edge design in its day. There’s something familiar and comforting about the space, yet also something intriguing and unusual. Tuljak was restored in 2014, and the following year the building received the Estonian Heritage Board’s “Well-Restored Monument” award. The current Tuljak restaurant began its operations in 2015.

The restaurant’s interior is dominated by a dark ceiling, with copper lamps resembling stars. The chairs and tables are simple and functional, reflecting the style of the era. The space is characterised by brick, wood, and dark tones.

This spring, Tuljak received the Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin Guide for the second time. This accolade is given to restaurants offering exceptional value for money, and in 2024, only six establishments in Estonia have earned this recognition.

The dining room, which seats over 100, was nearly full of guests. Due to the rainy weather, the large terrace was empty. “Most of our customers are Estonians,” says waitress Kristiin. “But we also get a lot of tourists.” The service at Tuljak is naturally friendly without being overly formal.

For some reason, the four-course tasting menu listed on the menu was not available. Additionally, the bread starter listed on the menu was also unavailable. “Unfortunately, our menu is not completely up-to-date,” they apologised.

Tuljak’s menu is international, with a good selection of vegetarian dishes and plenty of fish options. However, local fish was notably absent, which is a shame as a dish featuring Estonian perch, for example, would suit this place well.

An Asian fusion touch was found in the tartare dish, which is served with chopsticks. The tartare was excellent. Tuljak’s most expensive dish, a 250-gram marble entrecôte steak with béarnaise sauce, also received praise. However, the sea bass dish was somewhat underwhelming.

For desserts, the chocolate “Poolkuu” and the raspberry “Linnupesa” were highly rated for both presentation and taste. The Pinot Grigio and Valpolicella Ripasso wines recommended by Kristiin were excellent choices.