16.7.2025 | Restaurants

Seven Stops on Southern Estonia’s Culinary Map

Text and photos Susanna Poikela

Denis Pretto presenting cheeses at Viinamärdi Dairy, matured for at least four months in cool storage.

The Flavour Journey is a map created by Uma Mekk that highlights local producers and eateries in Southern Estonia. Uma Mekk is a food network that connects small entrepreneurs and family-run businesses in the Vana-Võromaa region. The map is known in Estonian as Maitsete teekond. It can be found on Uma Mekk’s website, and features 25 destinations. This article highlights seven of them.

Estonian–Italian Dairy in the Village of Luke

Viinamärdi Farm lies in the middle of flat farmland in the village of Luke. The dairy and the barn behind it—where sheep are kept—both look like they are just waking up to a new day. At the door appears Denis Pretto, the Italian host of the farm. Soon his wife, Annemari Polikarpus, joins him.

We peek into the dairy’s cold rooms. From one of them wafts a strong smell of aging cheese, making a city-dweller’s nose wrinkle. But you get used to the smell quickly. Despite the pungent aroma, the cheese wheels on the shelves look delicious. The selection includes semi-hard cheeses flavoured with herbs, truffles, or black garlic.

“We mostly make cheese from sheep’s milk. Our sheep breed is the French Lacaune, which is also used to make Roquefort blue cheese,” explains Denis Pretto.

The farm shop also offers gelato—Italian-style ice cream. Denis points to a nearby, still-empty room: “That’s where we’ll start producing Viinamärdi ice cream for sale.”

Tillu Café offers a wide variety of baked goods and farm products.

A Cozy Café in Põlva

With a backpack full of cheese, I continue along the Flavour Journey toward Põlva, where the next stop awaits. Tillu Café is a warm and welcoming café and lunch spot right across from the train station. The counters and shelves are overflowing with goods from local farms, the in-house kitchen, and bakery. The interior features beautiful antique furniture and decorations.

“Our cinnamon buns are famous in town,” smiles café owner Eve Veski. The freshly baked bun is indeed large and delicious. On the way out, I grab a loaf of Tillu’s own rye bread—it definitely deserves a perfect ten. The counter also offers many other baked goods and products. I highly recommend stopping by Tillu Café.

Events and parties are regularly held at Murimäe Winery.

Vineyards on the Southern Slope of Lake Naha

From the fields, I head to Kanepi, and then on to Lake Naha, where the Murimäe Wine Cellar is located. The farmland gives way to rolling, lush forest landscapes. The gravel roads twist and turn—I’m no longer surprised that some of Estonia’s best drivers come from the South.

At Murimäe, some grapes are grown in greenhouses, while others thrive on a warm and sunny south-facing slope. You can come taste the wines on-site or order directly from the producer. The vineyard’s large terrace frequently hosts various events.

A Fairytale Manor Night in Latvia

With a few precious bottles of Murimäe wine packed, I head toward Latvia. Since Latvia is so close to the southernmost points on the Flavour Journey, I decide to take a peek across the border. I choose to stay at Ziemeri Manor near Alūksne, built at the end of the 18th century.

Today, it’s owned by theatre director Dita Balčus, who has transformed the manor into an enchanting fairytale destination, both inside and out. The evening is spent exploring the manor’s rooms and history. You can find accommodation at the manor on Airbnb under the name 4 Roses and Wolf.

A Rest Stop by Lake Pullijärv

The next morning, I head toward Lake Pullijärv. Since I’m ahead of schedule, I stop at the Pullijärv Lunch Café before visiting the Andri-Peedo Dairy. The café’s menu is suitable for the whole family. Opposite is the Pullijärv holiday resort, which also offers overnight stays.

Linda Pajo is an expert in goat cheese production.

Goat Cheese Products from Andri-Peedo

From the café, I continue to the Andri-Peedo Farm. The day is sunny and heavy with the promise of thunderstorms. A winding dirt road leads deeper into forests and fields. Two huge hornets buzz back and forth above my head but luckily soon disappear toward the field.

At Andri-Peedo, goat milk, cheese, and yogurt are produced. “Since just selling goat milk wasn’t enough to make a living, we started making cheese too. An Italian cheese master once came to teach us. Now we offer many kinds of goat cheese,” says Linda Pajo.

In Obinitsa, the museum’s 30th anniversary was celebrated with a festive service, meal, and music.

From Setomaa Toward Põlva

On the last day of the trip, I travel through Setomaa toward Põlva. I make one last stop at the Obinitsa Museum. A festive table is set in the museum’s courtyard. The museum, which tells the story of Seto culture, is celebrating its 30th anniversary. A priest leads the guests to the table.

On the plate appears baked porridge, pickles, eggs, and cake. The atmosphere is joyful and warm.

Käbliku’s pizza pairs well with their craft beer.

Käbliku Craft Beer, Rock, and Pizza

I stop for lunch at Käbliku’s pizza and beer cellar in Põlva. The server has just opened the place. The sun is shining pleasantly on the terrace. I choose a pizza to eat on-site, and take home a selection of beers.
Käbliku Brewery hosts the annual Käbliku Beer Camp & Rock’N’Roll rock festival. This year, the event takes place on 11–12 July.

Don’t miss Andre Farm’s shop. In addition to food products, it offers handicrafts, and has event space available for rent.

Andre Farm Shop Near Tartu

One of my favourite cheeses for years has been the long-aged hard cheese made from cow’s milk at Andre Farm. In addition to cheeses and other dairy products, the shop offers many other gourmet items and handicrafts from various producers. I highly recommend stopping by the Andre Farm shop, which is only a 30-minute drive from Tartu.

Setomaa’s Major Cultural Festival in August

Seto Kingdom Day is the biggest cultural event in Setomaa, held annually on the first Saturday of August. It gathers Setos and anyone interested in their culture. The highlight of the day is a ceremony where the laws of the Seto Kingdom are symbolically declared to stand above both Estonian and Russian law. The event also includes competitions that celebrate Seto traditions.

Each year, a new ülemsootska is chosen—the secular representative of King Peko. In Finnic mythology, Peko is a household spirit, and fertility god.

To learn more about this and similar topics
dairies in Estonia Food Setomaa Kingdom Day Southern Estonia Tillu Café UMA Mekk Viinamärdi Cheeses