National parks – The pearls of Estonian nature
Text Mikko Virta Photos Mati Kose, Rivo Veber, Hetkeline Map Eve Jaansoo
Swimming in a bog pool is an unforgettable experience that can be enjoyed in various national parks across Estonia. Stunning boardwalk trails wind through the bogs of Soomaa (pictured), Lahemaa, and Alutaguse.
Matsalu – A birdwatcher’s paradise in Western Estonia
The national park around Matsalu Bay is known as a bird paradise even beyond the borders of Estonia. The internationally significant bird area attracts vast numbers of ducks, geese, swans, waders and sparrows to rest during the migration periods, in spring and autumn. Matsalu is often humorously referred to as the “ABC service station for birds”, where they stop to “refuel” before continuing their journey.
The best time to visit Matsalu is during spring from April to May, or in autumn, from September to October, when the coastal meadows, sea bay, and fields are full of migratory birds. Good birdwatching spots include the Haeska, Keemu, Rannajõe and Puisen bird towers, as well as the Põgari beach. Since the birds are often quite far out on the bay or coastal meadows, binoculars and/or a telescope are recommended.
For plant enthusiasts, late spring to early summer (May to June) is the golden period, when you can find stunning orchids, steppe anemones, and pale pink primroses in Matsalu’s meadows and salt marshes. Notable plant sites in the park include Laelatu’s meadow and Puhtu island. The preservation of coastal meadows and marshes by grazing and mowing is crucial for many plant rarities.
The visitor centre located in the Penijõe manor is an interesting destination for the whole family. You can also buy maps and get tips for excursions there.
Did you know that Estonia’s first jackals were found in Matsalu in 2013?
Area: 494 square kilometres.
Established: protected area in 1957, national park in 2004.
Soomaa – Flooded landscapes and wetland wonders
For many Estonians, Soomaa conjures images of the “fifth season” in spring, when the rivers overflow their banks, submerging forests and meadows. This extraordinary flooding draws visitors from across the country and abroad eager to experience canoeing through the submerged woodlands. Nowadays, such floods can even occur during winter.
Even outside the flood season, Soomaa’s rivers offer excellent opportunities for canoeing. Paddling along the meandering waterways is a memorable experience, with majestic oaks arching over the river and kingfishers darting ahead of your canoe. Renting canoes is simple, with several local providers in the area.
As its name suggests, Soomaa (bogland) has extensive bogs. The largest of them is Kuresoo, which is considered one of the largest bogs in Estonia. You can explore the nature of the bogs on long-distance trails, the most popular of which are the Riisa and Ingatsi trails. Soomaa is a year-round destination, with snowshoeing and kick-sledding being especially enjoyable in winter.
The sparsely populated wilderness offers a peaceful habitat for golden eagles, black storks and large predators such as bears. The wolf, Estonia’s national animal, also roams the forests of Soomaa.
The Soomaa Visitor Centre, located in Tõramaa, provides insights into the park’s natural beauty as well as its cultural heritage. There you can explore not only nature but also the interesting cultural heritage of Soomaa, which is centred on the haabjas, a boat carved from a single aspen tree. The haabjas tradition was recognised by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021.
Did you know that there are many spots along Soomaa’s trails where you can take a refreshing dip in the bog pools?
Surface area: 398 square kilometers.
Established: National Park in 1993.
Vilsandi – Island culture and marine nature
Seals, seabirds and lighthouses – Vilsandi evokes numerous images related to the sea. The national park, located in the western part of Saaremaa, is the most marine national park of its kind in Estonia. Consisting of several islands and islets, the national park offers a lot to see for those interested in birds and plants. The national park is named after the island of Vilsandi.
Birdwatchers may be particularly interested in species such as the shelduck, avocet, and common tern. During migration, the bays provide vital resting spots for waterfowl and waders. Due to the relatively mild winter temperatures that keep Estonia’s western sea areas ice-free, many water birds gather there, including the rare and striking Steller’s eider.
The richness of the flora is attributed to its limestone-rich soil, which is particularly suitable for orchids, of which over 30 species have been identified in the park. The limestone cliffs are worth a closer look, as they often contain fossils dating back hundreds of millions of years. Those with a keen interest in geology should visit the Soeginina Cliff.
Vilsandi is also famed for its seals, with dozens visible at once in some areas. The park boasts Estonia’s largest grey seal resting area, and local companies offer seal-watching tours.
The Vilsandi National Park Visitor Centre is located in the historic Loona Manor, about a half-hour drive from Kuressaare. Vilsandi Island can be reached by ferry from Papissaare Harbour.
Did you know that Estonia’s first nature reserve was established in the Vilsandi area, on the Vaika Islands, in 1910?
Area: 485 square kilometres.
Established: National Park in 1993.
Lahemaa – The largest and oldest
Estonia’s largest and oldest national park surprises with its versatility. A shady spruce forest changes to an idyllic seascape or manor house environment just a stone’s throw away. In Lahemaa, you can experience many different landscapes and natural attractions in one day. Short distances make hiking pleasant and easy. Lahemaa has several well-maintained nature trails. Additionally, the hiking trail which spans the entire country begins in Oandu.
In addition to nature, Lahemaa also cherishes a rich traditional culture. You can explore this at the Palmse Manor Visitor Centre and the Sagadi Manor Forest Museum. Lahemaa’s manors are famous throughout the country, and their parks offer plenty to see for nature lovers. The pearls of the coast are the old villages, such as Vergi, Altja, Käsmu and Viinistu. They all also have convenient services for tourists, such as restaurants, village shops and inns. It is also worth visiting the fascinating Käsmu Maritime Museum and the Viinistu Art Museum.
For birdwatchers, the shallow bays of Vergi and Eru are good destinations. The latter also has a bird watching tower from which you can watch the birds of the bay. The northernmost point on the Estonian mainland, Purekkari, is also popular with birdwatchers.
Half of the national park’s area is forest, making Lahemaa one of Europe’s most important forest conservation areas.
Did you know that Estonia’s first national park was established in Lahemaa in 1971?
Area: 747 square kilometers.
Established: 1971.
Alutaguse – Estonia’s Siberia on the EU’s Eastern border
Located in eastern Estonia, Alutaguse National Park borders the Narva River and Russia to the east and Peipsi Lake to the south.
Estonia’s youngest national park is a combination of vast marshlands, forests and the shores of Peipsi Lake. It has also been referred to as the Siberia of Estonia. Alutaguse belongs to the coniferous forest zone that continues all the way to Siberia. The area is home to many northern species, including the great grey owl, Siberian jay, and willow ptarmigan, many of which reach the southern edge of their range here.
On the other hand, in Alutaguse, you can find species that are exotic, such as black storks and lesser spotted eagles, as well as various types of woodpeckers. Mäetaguse also has a handsome old oak forest.
The park’s wetlands—Puhatu, Agusalu, and Muraka—form a vast bog complex that provides ample habitat for both large predators and wetland birds. The sparsely populated wilderness area is also home to a large number of bears, wolves and lynxes. There have also been rumours of a wolverine visiting there. The bear population is regularly replenished by animals crossing over from Russia beyond the eastern border.
Estonians are avid berry pickers. People go to the bogs to pick cloudberries and cranberries. You can hike in the bogs on the Kotka and Seliso nature trails, the latter of which is especially a wonderful destination with its numerous lakes. The Kurtna Lake District area is also a popular hiking area.
It is worth starting your trip to Alutaguse from the national park’s visitor centre, located in Kauksi. There you can also admire Estonia’s longest sandy beach, over 30 kilometres long, which stretches along the northern shore of Peipsi Lake all the way to the eastern border. Peipsi Lake , Europe’s fifth-largest lake, is also a wonderful sight in itself.
Did you know that Alutaguse is the only area in Estonia where flying squirrels live?
Area: 450 square kilometers.
Founded: 2018.
Karula – the smallest and hilliest
The hilly landscape of Karula in southern Estonia is a feast for the eyes. Rolling hills stretch endlessly, interspersed with patches of fields, lakes and old farmhouses. Here and there, traditional smoke saunas dot the yards, with wisps of smoke rising skyward on Saturdays, the traditional Sauna day.
In Karula, nature and humans have always lived in harmony. The forests have provided sustenance, but also protection against the enemy. Foresters hid in the forests of Karula in the early years of the Soviet occupation. Signs of the bunkers are still visible.
Today, 70 per cent of the Karula area is covered in forests. The sheltered, old forests provide a peaceful habitat for black storks, which live in Karula more than anywhere else in Estonia. The timid and secretive black stork has become very rare in recent decades. In recent years, a popular nest camera has been broadcasting live broadcasts from a Karula black stork nest on the internet.
Karula Visitor Centre is located on the shores of Lake Ähijärv, which is also the other end of the hiking trail that runs through the whole of Estonia. The national park has many hiking trails of various lengths. The best views of the hilly surroundings are from the new Mäekonnu observation tower.
Did you know that nowhere else in Estonia are there as many hills as in Karula?
Area: 123 square kilometres.
Founded: 1993.
To learn more about this and similar topicsAlutaguse Estonia national parks Estonian Nature Karula Lahemaa Soomaa Vilsandi
