Trio in Autumnal Narva
Text and photos Susanna Poikela
Narva Town Hall Square in evening lights.
How does a trip to Estonia’s easternmost city go with two dogs? And what does Narva offer for furry travel companions and their humans? If you plan to travel so that the dogs accompany you from start to finish, Narva is a surprisingly effortless and welcoming destination.
The train journey from Tallinn to Narva goes without any problems. Just in case, I’ve brought a carrier bag with me if travelling on a lead were not allowed. However, the four-legged ones sleep contentedly at my feet for the entire trip. At the Narva railway station, we are met by our Airbnb host Aleksandr, who drives us to the accommodation. The flat is located in a historic building a stone’s throw from the Valge Kõrvits restaurant.
After the house tour, I head to the town hall, which is one of the few preserved Baroque-era buildings in Narva. The beautiful red-painted building now houses the tourist information centre and the city council. A virtual exhibition has also been opened in the town hall, taking visitors back to the time before the Second World War, and showing what Narva was like before the bombings of March 1944.
Narva River towards the evening and the Ro-Ro Art Club
I have lunch at the familiar Valge Kõrvits. The ramen is decent, and my dogs receive pats from the waiters and the cook. After the meal, we head for the Narva River. Upon reaching the shore, we start walking along the riverside promenade from the Joaorg beach house towards the Dark Garden (Pimeaed). We are in no hurry with the dogs. We sit down near Hermann Castle to watch the quiet flow of the border river. On the opposite bank rises the massive Ivangorod Fortress. On weekends the promenade is usually lively, but now the atmosphere is serene. Fishermen can be seen on both sides of the riverbank.
In the evening, we head to Baar Ro-Ro Art Club, where I have not been before. The bar is very cosy inside, and suitably bohemian. I order white wine and a snack plate. The wine is room temperature, but it will do. The snack plate, however, is a surprise: the plate is piled high with calamari rings, onion rings, sausages, chicken, and cheeses. I sit outside by the river, enjoying my generous plate, and the darkening Saturday evening.
On the way back to the accommodation, we walk through the Dark Garden. Narva has sometimes been considered unsafe late at night, but at least now we encounter only ordinary Narva locals, and a few tourists. If you don’t feel like walking, Bolt electric scooters are also available.
Towards Nart and the Kreenholm factory area
The next day awaits a late breakfast at Café Muna. Our Airbnb host offers to drive me. I try to refuse, because the café is only about half a kilometre away. “No, that’s out of the question,” he replies. The café operates on the premises of the University of Tartu’s Narva College. I order a hearty omelette and coffee. The dogs sit at my feet, and of course receive a few treats. The dogs are unanimous: “We want more!”
Before the journey home, I want to stop by the Nart Art Gallery. We walk to the riverside promenade through the park in front of the town hall, and follow the river for a while. We arrive at the Kreenholm factory area, where the old workers’ houses have fortunately partly survived bombings and fires. At Nart we take a short art tour and explore the basic exhibition of the art residency, which tells about the Kreenholm factory era, the history of the building, and the factory area. Guided tours are also organised at Kreenholm.
The trip is beginning to come to an end. I breathe in Narva’s sunny Sunday and play with the dogs for a moment in Joala Park before the train ride back to Tallinn. We all enjoyed ourselves immensely. Narva offered just the right amount of sights, pleasant parks, and beautiful scenery, even for those travelling with dogs.
To learn more about this and similar topicsNarva Narva attractions Narva Castle Narva River traveling with a dog
