Modern Asian food awaits you in Noblessner
Text Susanna Poikela Photo Burak Can Aksit
Fresh salmon sashimi.
UMA appears to have created something lasting in the old Noblessner submarine factory. The space previously hosted several restaurant ventures with little success, but restaurateur and founder of two popular Michelin-starred establishments, Kristjan Peäske, is confident in his vision of a modern Asian kitchen. Peäske and his long-time business partner Janno Lepik bring with them extensive experience in Tallinn’s competitive restaurant scene, which is as breezy as the chic Noblessner harbour area in mid-winter.
“We wanted to see a modern and contemporary Asian restaurant in the city, where delicious food meets good service, a well-designed environment and a well-curated drinks menu. There are several very good Asian restaurants in Tallinn, but most are simple and unpretentious places with a largely neglected drinks list. We want to bring Asian flavours into a modern environment without being too fussy. Marit Ilison‘s interior design is both feminine and warm, but also excitingly versatile, creating a space that we think fits this vision perfectly,” says Peäske, describing the idea behind UMA.
The menu, crafted by Janno Lepik, head chef of all Peäske and Lepik’s restaurants, in collaboration with Kristo Malm. “It might seem unusual for local chefs to be at the helm of an Asian-inspired kitchen, but UMA stands for ‘Unorthodox Modern Asia. Kristo and Janno thrive in exploring the typical flavours of Southeast Asia, which are sweet, sour, salty, and spicy,” Peäske elaborates.
Having no prior experience with UMA’s menu, I opted for the tasting menu, which included ten dishes and one main course for 67 euros. The dishes were served creatively on tiered trays. It’s impossible to detail every dish here, but my favourites included the fresh salmon sashimi, where a spicy sauce gave just the right kick to the lightly salted fish. Other excellent dishes included the Chinese beef salad, prawns in laksa sauce, and the delicious main course of beef entrecôte. Many dishes incorporated nuts in various forms, so those with nut allergies should mention this when ordering.
The drinks were an excellent complement to the meal, particularly the Cava Cygnus Giennah Brut Rosé and Les Perrières Vouvray Sec, recommended by the server and costing 18 euros. For dessert, the lime-flavoured posset was a wonderful surprise with its sorbet-like freshness. To round off the experience, a white Negroni cocktail proved to be the perfect lifesaver, as it took some time to fully digest the whole set of dishes.
Service was flawless from start to finish. There were no delays, and the staff’s expert attentiveness added to the enjoyment. The restaurant’s atmosphere caters to a more mature audience, exuding a sense of unhurried elegance and understated sophistication.
To learn more about this and similar topicsAsian Food in Tallinn Fine Dining in Tallinn Kristjan Peäske Noblessner Restaurants in Tallinn UMA restaurant UMA tasting menu
