30 Years of Italian Delicacies

Text and photos Timo Huttunen

It is a good idea to make a reservation in advance for this popular restaurant.

The Italian restaurant Controvento has been operating in the same building in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town for over 30 years. The place has managed to maintain its high standard over the years, and has achieved an almost legendary reputation.

Controvento’s charming building is located on a medieval street called Katariina käik.

The restaurant, which opened in 1994, is the oldest Italian venue in Tallinn. The restaurant operates on two floors. When you go upstairs, you feel like you are entering an Italian tavern. The medieval building, murals, wooden floors, solid dark ceiling beams, white tablecloths, and wooden furniture fit seamlessly into the whole. The restaurant has an elegant, yet cosy atmosphere.

The Italian flag on the wall reminds you that you are in a place that offers traditional Italian cuisine. The venison tartare steak with truffles ordered as a starter is a successful combo of strong flavours. The dish also included a vinaigrette sauce, onions, and peas. The elements worked surprisingly well together.

The sophisticated carpaccio was also spring-like: light, and fresh. The pike perch served as the main course was fried to the perfect degree. The surface was crispy, but the portion was not at all dry. The taste of the fresh fish was at its best. The risotto with ossobuco was the most exotic dish of the dinner. It was worth taking the risk. The al dente-cooked risotto and the melt-in-your-mouth ossobuco worked amazingly well.

The restaurant has a large wine list, consisting mainly of Italian wines. At Controvento, conversation around the table is at a normal volume. There is no disturbing music in the restaurant. The only sounds in the room are the murmur of conversation, which is a mixture of different languages.

The waitress, Kristi, who has been working at Controvento for ten years, knew her job. She explained the dishes expertly, successfully recommended wines, and advised us to always make a reservation at the restaurant. “You can still find a free table at lunchtime, but in the evenings the restaurant is almost always full.”

Although Controvento is not cheap, the prices of the dishes are quite reasonable, considering the level.

Restoran Controvento, Vene 12 (Katariina käik), Tallinn.

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Controvento Food gourmet gourmet restaurants in Tallinn italian restaurant Restaurants in Tallinn Tallinn Old Town