{"id":149100,"date":"2025-07-16T01:31:00","date_gmt":"2025-07-15T22:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/balticguide.ee\/?p=149100"},"modified":"2025-07-15T10:47:18","modified_gmt":"2025-07-15T07:47:18","slug":"seven-stops-on-southern-estonias-culinary-map","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/balticguide.ee\/en\/seven-stops-on-southern-estonias-culinary-map\/","title":{"rendered":"Seven Stops on Southern Estonia\u2019s Culinary Map"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

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The Flavour Journey is a map created by Uma Mekk that highlights local producers and eateries in Southern Estonia. Uma Mekk is a food network that connects small entrepreneurs and family-run businesses in the Vana-V\u00f5romaa region. The map is known in Estonian as Maitsete teekond<\/i>. It can be found on Uma Mekk’s website<\/span><\/a><\/span>, and features 25 destinations. This article highlights seven of them.<\/p>\n

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Estonian\u2013Italian Dairy in the Village of Luke<\/h2>\n

Viinam\u00e4rdi Farm lies in the middle of flat farmland in the village of Luke. The dairy and the barn behind it\u2014where sheep are kept\u2014both look like they are just waking up to a new day. At the door appears Denis Pretto<\/strong>, the Italian host of the farm. Soon his wife, Annemari Polikarpus<\/strong>, joins him.<\/p>\n

We peek into the dairy\u2019s cold rooms. From one of them wafts a strong smell of aging cheese, making a city-dweller\u2019s nose wrinkle. But you get used to the smell quickly. Despite the pungent aroma, the cheese wheels on the shelves look delicious. The selection includes semi-hard cheeses flavoured with herbs, truffles, or black garlic.<\/p>\n

“We mostly make cheese from sheep\u2019s milk. Our sheep breed is the French Lacaune, which is also used to make Roquefort blue cheese,” explains Denis Pretto.<\/p>\n

The farm shop also offers gelato\u2014Italian-style ice cream. Denis points to a nearby, still-empty room: “That’s where we\u2019ll start producing Viinam\u00e4rdi ice cream for sale.”<\/p>\n

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Tillu Caf\u00e9 offers a wide variety of baked goods and farm products.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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A Cozy Caf\u00e9 in P\u00f5lva<\/h2>\n

With a backpack full of cheese, I continue along the Flavour Journey toward P\u00f5lva, where the next stop awaits. Tillu Caf\u00e9 is a warm and welcoming caf\u00e9 and lunch spot right across from the train station. The counters and shelves are overflowing with goods from local farms, the in-house kitchen, and bakery. The interior features beautiful antique furniture and decorations.<\/p>\n

“Our cinnamon buns are famous in town,” smiles caf\u00e9 owner Eve Veski<\/strong>. The freshly baked bun is indeed large and delicious. On the way out, I grab a loaf of Tillu\u2019s own rye bread\u2014it definitely deserves a perfect ten. The counter also offers many other baked goods and products. I highly recommend stopping by Tillu Caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n

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Events and parties are regularly held at Murim\u00e4e Winery.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Vineyards on the Southern Slope of Lake Naha<\/h2>\n

From the fields, I head to Kanepi, and then on to Lake Naha, where the Murim\u00e4e Wine Cellar is located. The farmland gives way to rolling, lush forest landscapes. The gravel roads twist and turn\u2014I\u2019m no longer surprised that some of Estonia\u2019s best drivers come from the South.<\/p>\n

At Murim\u00e4e, some grapes are grown in greenhouses, while others thrive on a warm and sunny south-facing slope. You can come taste the wines on-site or order directly from the producer. The vineyard’s large terrace frequently hosts various events.<\/p>\n

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A Fairytale Manor Night in Latvia<\/h2>\n

With a few precious bottles of Murim\u00e4e wine packed, I head toward Latvia. Since Latvia is so close to the southernmost points on the Flavour Journey, I decide to take a peek across the border. I choose to stay at Ziemeri Manor near Al\u016bksne, built at the end of the 18th century.<\/p>\n

Today, it\u2019s owned by theatre director Dita Bal\u010dus<\/strong>, who has transformed the manor into an enchanting fairytale destination, both inside and out. The evening is spent exploring the manor\u2019s rooms and history. You can find accommodation at the manor on Airbnb under the name 4 Roses and Wolf<\/i>.<\/p>\n

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A Rest Stop by Lake Pullij\u00e4rv<\/h2>\n

The next morning, I head toward Lake Pullij\u00e4rv. Since I\u2019m ahead of schedule, I stop at the Pullij\u00e4rv Lunch Caf\u00e9 before visiting the Andri-Peedo Dairy. The caf\u00e9\u2019s menu is suitable for the whole family. Opposite is the Pullij\u00e4rv holiday resort, which also offers overnight stays.<\/p>\n

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Linda Pajo is an expert in goat cheese production.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Goat Cheese Products from Andri-Peedo<\/h2>\n

From the caf\u00e9, I continue to the Andri-Peedo Farm. The day is sunny and heavy with the promise of thunderstorms. A winding dirt road leads deeper into forests and fields. Two huge hornets buzz back and forth above my head but luckily soon disappear toward the field.<\/p>\n

At Andri-Peedo, goat milk, cheese, and yogurt are produced. “Since just selling goat milk wasn\u2019t enough to make a living, we started making cheese too. An Italian cheese master once came to teach us. Now we offer many kinds of goat cheese,” says Linda Pajo<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

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In Obinitsa, the museum\u2019s 30th anniversary was celebrated with a festive service, meal, and music.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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From Setomaa Toward P\u00f5lva<\/h2>\n

On the last day of the trip, I travel through Setomaa toward P\u00f5lva. I make one last stop at the Obinitsa Museum. A festive table is set in the museum\u2019s courtyard. The museum, which tells the story of Seto culture, is celebrating its 30th anniversary. A priest leads the guests to the table.<\/p>\n

On the plate appears baked porridge, pickles, eggs, and cake. The atmosphere is joyful and warm.<\/p>\n

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K\u00e4bliku’s pizza pairs well with their craft beer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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K\u00e4bliku Craft Beer, Rock, and Pizza<\/h2>\n

I stop for lunch at K\u00e4bliku\u2019s pizza and beer cellar in P\u00f5lva. The server has just opened the place. The sun is shining pleasantly on the terrace. I choose a pizza to eat on-site, and take home a selection of beers.
K\u00e4bliku Brewery hosts the annual K\u00e4bliku Beer Camp & Rock\u2019N\u2019Roll rock festival. This year, the event takes place on 11\u201312 July.<\/p>\n

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Don\u2019t miss Andre Farm\u2019s shop. In addition to food products, it offers handicrafts, and has event space available for rent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Andre Farm Shop Near Tartu<\/h2>\n

One of my favourite cheeses for years has been the long-aged hard cheese made from cow\u2019s milk at Andre Farm. In addition to cheeses and other dairy products, the shop offers many other gourmet items and handicrafts from various producers. I highly recommend stopping by the Andre Farm shop, which is only a 30-minute drive from Tartu.<\/p>\n

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