We know Estonia
12.4.2016 | Leisure

Back in the Pub Habit

Back in the Pub Habit

We were bored. We wanted to find a way out of the usual Saturday-night cycle of disappointment. My friends and I decided, rather than go to the usual wine-bars and overly-noisy clubs, we would head to the pubs. Specifically, we would go to the popular pubs and drinking houses of the Old Town in Tallinn, where tourists often went, but locals rarely did. Why didn’t we usually go to these places? It’s difficult to say, given that they’re mostly designed with foreigners in Estonia in mind. Maybe it was snobbery. Maybe it was just a lack of imagination. Whatever it was, we felt it was time to get back into the pub habit.

 

We began, as was once traditional, at Beer House (Dunkri 5, Tallinn Old Town, www.beerhouse.ee), a German-style watering hole on the lip of the hill that eventually leads up to the Danish Garden and Toompea. Beer House does its best with its surroundings, building in several rooms with different themes and atmospheres, although overall the whole building feels a bit too cavernous because of the very high ceilings and the enormous expanse of space the alehouse covers. That said, the beers on offer are spectacularly good, with one of the widest choices of any establishment. Don’t be surprised to find many beers you hadn’t previously known about. In addition, there is a very good menu, featuring wholesome Germanic treats and enough carbohydrates and protein to keep you full for a weekend.

 

After Beer House, you’ll need to go to somewhere cosier and where you can talk more easily with the people close to you. Clayhills Gastropub (Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town, www.clayhills.ee) has been on the part of Pikk Street that has a full view out onto Raekoja Plats for as long as most people can remember, and yet if you ask most local people, they’ll say they’ve never been there. To answer why is a conundrum – it’s packed with nooks and crannies in its compact bar area where diners and drinkers can recline in comfortable chairs. There is also regular, and very good, live music there. Perhaps it’s just that Clayhills has too much of a long-standing reputation as a go-to for tourists – however it’s classy, well-mannered place, where the service is practically flawless and even the English fish & chips – so often something that bars struggle with – is battered crisply with real, thick-cut chips that make it feel almost like home. If your home is a sedate, upmarket pub in Cheltenham.

 

For something a bit more raucous, we went to Hell Hunt (Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town, www.hellhunt.ee), which doesn’t actually mean what it seems to when an English-speaker scans its name. This is probably the most famous pub in Tallinn among visitors, and it’s certainly the most likely to be full on a weekend night. If you can find a table, you’ll have a great time, the place feels warm and inviting, the beer list, while not as comprehensive as Beer House, has enough variety to keep you interested, and live sports matches are shown on the screen. The service in Hell Hunt can leave a lot to be desired, but people work hard shifts there, so I say live and let live. If you’re lucky, you’ll find brownies made by legendary Korean-American chef Heidi Park, whose kitchen is based a few miles down the road.

 

To finish, I suggested we head to Texas (Pikk 43, Tallinn Old Town, www.texas.ee). Not the state, but an American-style honky-tonk bar with low lighting, all-wooden interior, and a soundtrack that covers the entire narrow musical spectrum from Johnny Cash to Neil Young and back. If you haven’t already eaten, try the bar’s burritos and tacos – if you have, sit back and enjoy the jolly service and a small but well-picked selection of beers. Texas isn’t necessarily an evening-ender – it’s also perfectly good at the start – but it is a very good place to go with your friends and a good mood; you can guarantee you’ll feel even better when you’ve spent some time in there. 

 

Click on the address to see the location.

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

To learn more about this and similar topics

21.3.2024 | Leisure

Jack Holmes brings his fearless style of comedy to Tallinn

Jack Holmes brings his fearless style of comedy to Tallinn

British comedian Jack Holmes will perform his latest show, “Light in the Dark,” twice this week at Heldeke in … Read more

19.3.2024 | Leisure

Explore Tartu by bike for free 

Explore Tartu by bike for free 

Every Tuesday at 6 pm between now and the end of April, cyclists of all ages are invited to … Read more

11.3.2024 | Leisure

Exciting events in Estonia this week

Exciting events in Estonia this week

21.02–30.03, Pärnu Fotofest 2024, Pärnu 07.03–23.04, Tribute to Queen, around Estonia 09.03–18.05, December Rain Ballet, Tartu 11.03, Mike Oldfield … Read more

8.3.2024 | Leisure

Tallinn Boat Show begins

Tallinn Boat Show begins

This weekend the biggest boat show of the year in the Baltic states will take place in Tallinn. In … Read more

7.3.2024 | Leisure

Pamper your lady this Women’s Day

Pamper your lady this Women’s Day

In Estonia, Women’s Day is celebrated by giving flowers and gifts to women. If you don’t see men in … Read more

5.3.2024 | Leisure

The Winter Swimming World Championships are underway in Tallinn

The Winter Swimming World Championships are underway in Tallinn

The week-long Winter Swimming World Championships started yesterday in Tallinn. The event, which is the largest of its kind … Read more

4.3.2024 | Restaurants

Exciting events in Estonia this week

Exciting events in Estonia this week

21.02–30.03, Pärnu Fotofest 2024, Pärnu 05–09.03, Student Jazz 2024, Tallinn, Tartu, Viljandi, Pärnu 06–09.03, Secret Service Concert, Tallinn, Tartu, … Read more

2.3.2024 | Leisure

Say goodbye to winter at the Kolkja Sled and Onion Route Winter Festival

Say goodbye to winter at the Kolkja Sled and Onion Route Winter Festival

With the uncharacteristically warm weather at the moment. The Kolkja Sled and Onion Route Winter Festival this Sunday (March … Read more